Wagga Wagga to Sydney

Day 7:

Before leaving Wagga Wagga we toured Charles Sturt University led by a previous Kansas State professor Peter Chenoweth. This was a fairly new facility with the equine center being in service for just under 4 years. Our first stop was through the beef center where they have been very focused on reproduction in recent years, even stretching to several new experiments with cloning. My most anticipated portion of this stop occurred in the sheep facility where I was able to see a Kelpie herd around a hundred or so sheep. For those of you who don't know what a Kelpie is, it is a very common herding dog here in Australia that is a dingo crossed dog who can utilize "backing" as a way to herd which occurs when they run across the backs of sheep to sort or move through the flock. After a 5 hour drive we arrived in Sydney. Although our time there was short we had a lot of fun. Almost immediately after arriving at centrally located the Grace Hotel, a few of us girls left to go shopping and take a look around the city. As expected this is a huge city with a lot to offer, very similar to New York City, but had much less congestion and placed a great emphasis on a more Victorian style architecture with numerous sculptures and fountains throughout our journey. With little time to spare we purchased a few souvenirs and headed off the the Captain Cook dinner cruise around the harbor. There I got a combination of great food and breathtaking views of the harbor bridge and the world famous Opera house. While on the cruise and after, I marveled at a tremendous light show they put on around the harbor which included several of the larger buildings. This was a very unique experience for me that I greatly appreciated.

National Livestock Indentification System (NLIS)

Visit the Department Website for additional information: http://www.dpi.vic.gov.au/

While on our visit to the Department of Primary Industries located in Melbourne, we received an indepth lecture regarding the National Livestock Identification System (NLIS) in Australia. Throughout Australia, it is now required to place an electronic ear tag or bolus inside the animal that can later be scanned to tell the new owner of the history of the animal. Each indentification device contains a Property Identification Code, or PIC, that can be traced back to the birthplace of the animal if used accordingly. The also utilize several different devices in order to read the ear tags such as strips that can be attached to trucks or a wand that must be waved over the tag. The bolus can only be indentified once the animal has been slaughtered. This has become a necessity in Australia due to the large number of exports to the European Union and a previous lack of tracing disease or residue. The down side to each of these systems though is quite obvious but difficult to correct. The ear tag itself can be removed and replaced with ease, making the animal a resident of a different property. The bolus also has issues because it must be removed before slaughter with no residue or sign of it being there. There are several upsides to this system though. For starters, if done properly, it creates a much simpler and standard form of record-keeping for producers. It is also beneficial for the producers that do not sell their livestock domestically since the requirements to export beef to the European Union are quite strict. The system allows an approved way to provide the history of the animal that can include all of the information the producer wishes. Lastly it gets rid of a great deal of "word of mouth" guarentees because there are several fines for not abiding by the rules tied into the NLIS. Unfortunately, while this system seems almost flawless, it is still very new and there are a fair number of people that are not willing to change there system or make the initial investment that is several thousand for the appropriate set up. Furthermore, if not maintained such things as a lost ear tag can cause a loss of the history prior to the implanting of the new ear tag.

And in Conclusion...

I learned more things in Australia than I could fit in a five-hundred word blog so I will do my best to summarize. Since I, along with the rest of the United States, put a much greater deal of focus on cattle than we do sheep, the majority of what I have taken back with me revolves around their cattle business. Nonetheless, I was amazed at the Trigger Vale operation. After listening to his review, I was stunned by the passion and drive he had for improving his herd through quality genetics and simply applying the numerous variables that he acquired. Not only that, Mr. Bouffler applied some old fashioned common sense to the animals he raised and knew that a producer must find the perfect balance between the animal condition, the offspring they produce, and the wool they provide because that’s what determines the difference between profit and loss, especially in the harsh Australian environment. The cattle industry surprised me as well. I went into this thinking that their industry would closely mirror ours and I was very, very wrong. To start, the price they get per kilogram of animal is much lower than the price per pound we receive here. Not only that, but they lack a premiums system that allows a good producer to take full advantage of the market and the animal he or she produces, they must simple be the right weight and hide color. That helped me see why many of the producers in Australia raise cattle or run a mixed operation as a secondary job. Their sales system is also much different. While we have many options in the way we sell and market our breed, I saw only two main ones there. A producer may either sell to an agent who will further market and sell the cattle through a marketing center or go directly to the feedlot or slaughter plant, or they may sell overseas, primarily to the European Union. I was impressed by their tracking system, even with the few flaws it does have. They are capable of filing everything they have ever done to that animal and that file remains with them to the point that their product is sold to the consumer. Unfortunately though, the commonly used ear tag does not stay in, and the bolus creates an extra step when the animal is being processed. The last problem that is probably unavoidable is that every produce does not partake correctly or even at all. The last thing, and probably only real factor that I feel they were strides ahead of us with were the hardiness and disposition of their cattle. They cull cattle with problems such as calving, feet, digestion, or feed efficiency without a second thought because these cattle cannot be found easily if something were to go wrong and a loss in unaffordable. Even with this less domesticated tactic, the cattle in Australian were less than concerned with humans.

The Great Barrier Reef

Day 9:

Today was the day that I have been most looking forward to, we finally get to visit the Great Barrier Reef. Once again we left bright and early to get on the boat to first head out to the Green Island resort. Sadly though it was a day full of rain and clouds, with only a few visits from the Sun. After an hour ride on a very choppy sea, the boat finally arrived on the island. I immediately went to the brief scuba diving instruction course to get a grasp of all the basics to scuba diving. Without much time left on the island, I visited the local gift shop and picked up a few souvenirs. Getting onto another boat we traveled an additional hour over the still uneasy sea to get up close and personal with the reef. After allowing my stomach to settle some, I had a small lunch then quickly put on a wet suit and began snorkeling. I was amazed how close the reef was to the surface and memorized by the species of beautiful marine life.



After a frighteningly close experience to what I believe to have been a whitetip reef shark, I returned to the ship with little time to spare before it was my turn to scuba. Having just snorkeled, scuba diving was not as difficult as I thought it might be, and my group of four rapidly descended to the ocean floor. Only an estimated twenty meters below the surface, we explored seeing things I have only seen behind a thick wall of plexiglas. I saw giant sea clams, another shark, a clown fish in its home of anemone, and several other type of fish, some being surprisingly friendly. Although my time underwater was brief, I loved every minute of it and would love a chance to dive there in the future. After returning to the island I took a much needed shower then ventured down the street to finish off my shopping list and get rid of the remaining Australian money I had remaining. I returned to the hotel for our farewell dinner at the Bushfire restaurant. It was a Brazilian style restaurant that utilized the same techniques Spanish cowboys did by seasoning and marinating various meats then cooking them over an open flame. In my eyes, this was by far the best food I had my entire trip. I then concluded the evening by saying goodbye to our tour guide Graham Mitchell and strolled off to my room to pack for the long journey back to Manhattan.

Tjapukai Cultural Centre

Day 8:

Candace and I in front of the Sydney Opera House

I started the day quite a bit earlier today to get to the Sydney airport and fly out to Cairns. This will only be the second day that I simply get to enjoy being in Australia and for the first time since I arrived some warm weather and sandy beaches hopefully. After arriving at the airport we were briskly picked up and shuffled to the Tjapukai Cultural Center to get an up close lesson about the aboriginal culture here in Australia. They first gave us a briefing of their Dreamtime beliefs. Their religion states that at the beginning of time here were two brothers. One, Damarri (excuse the spelling), liked to make the world more difficult. He was the one who gave the crocodile his teeth and as a result, lost his leg. He also created such things as lightning and poisonous plants to keep the people strong. The other, Guyala, felt that the people should have an easy way of life free of struggle. Due to the clashes between the two brothers, they battled with Damarri emerging victorious. From these two came all of the plants and animals we see in Australia today. After seeing Bundarru the Cassowary bird, Damarri gave him Gidiri as his home. Being a flightless bird, he blew down the nuts and berries from the trees to give him food. Damarri told his people that if they find a Cassowary egg not to touch it and to do a ceremonial dance to make it hatch.

Ceremonial dancing at the Tjapukai Cultural Centre

The Cassowary is now an important token in the Aboriginal culture, being honored by paintings and dances. The Cassowary is now known as the Father of the Aboriginal people, with the Rainbow snake appointed as the grandfather, and the moon mother. After that show we all tried our hand at boomerang and spear throwing. Here is when I found out that I would probably starve if that was my way of finding food. After we were shown other weapons that were commonly used including the hook boomerang and hand-carved sword. We were also shown some of the natural ingredients they used as medicine. Concluding our experience we were given a digeredoo demonstration. The digeredoo is considered the oldest woodwind instrument and is made from a termite ridden, hollowed out tree and native beeswax. Ending our day we tried some of the local seafood.

A Day in Wagga Wagga

Day 6:

A sale proceeding at the Wagga Wagga Livestock Marketing Centre

I was very excited to visit the Wagga Wagga Livestock Marketing Centre this morning and get a glimpse into the flow of the beef and sheep industry. It is very different from the United States so I will try and summarize as understandably as possible. The cattle are initial bought from the producer through agents and then brought to the livestock market to be sold to another agent or to the abattoir. Cattle prices are very different here as well. The auctioneer ( whom doesn't chant bids but simply speaks what recurrent bid is) sells on a cents per kilogram basis, which when converted was roughly 85 cents per pound from what portion I saw today. They sell around 1200 head of cattle every Monday and 35,000 sheep every Thursday, which winds up being about 500 head of cattle an hour. The Wagga Wagga facility is older and operates somewhat differently than others in Australia because they allow livestock to be brought in up to 3 hours before the sale where it's neighboring centre is 12 and charge approximately a 4.5% commission compared to 3% in other locations. Next we traveled across the road to the Tey's Abattoir. I found it fascinating that they actually have an underground trail that enables them to herd the cattle purchased at Wagga Wagga directly to the abattoir, although they only buy a small portion of their production from there. The location we visited today was originally owned by Cargill untilSeptember of this year when the two companies merged making them more geographically optimal (Cargill owning many facilities in Victoria and New South Wales and Tey's being dominant in Queensland. We unfortunately did not get as detailed a tour as in their main competitor JBS, but from what I did see it was a much more Americanized plant with a more functional layout, probably due to the newer structure and original owners being Cargill. Summing up the day, we visited the Jindalee feedlot owned and operated by Tey's. They can have up to 30,000 head but are limited due to their water source. They are a very similar operation to those in the United States with some differences being only 100 days on feed and a lack of feed additives due to legality reasons.

Sheep, Emus, and Shorthorns

Day 5:

We headed to the Trigger Vale White Suffolk and Merino farm bright and early this morning. Andrew Bouffler was a very intelligent man that had obviously spent a lot of time educating himself on the "super" breed that he is looking to produce. He is currently crossing Merino ewes with White Suffolk rams. He puts a large amount of emphasis on the statistics of his sheep with very specific goals to ensure that they will survive even in the worst conditions. His ewes are expected to produce seven kilos of wool while still milking and maintaining their own body condition with a fat score of a four preferably.



The Bouffler family and new addition



Marston's emus during breeding

 Following this visit we went to the emu farm owned by Ian and Marilyn Marston. This was definitely a learning experience because my previous knowledge of mud was very limited. I did learn that the oil from the birds was the majority of income from the business with a $5 payment for every kilo produced and each emu providing roughly 10 kilos. The hatching process is also different from most birds because the eggs are guaranteed infertile it kept at a temperature above 40 degrees and require approximately 53 days to hatch.


A few of Spry's yearlings

Concluding our day we visited the Ardlui Shorthorn Stud ranch of the Spry family. This was an impressive place to visit because it is so closely ran. Once again the primary focus of this operation is survive in conditions that are less than optimal. Mr. Spry does very well here in Australia with a 2 year old bull having just won the Sydney Royal show and a yearling being sold for 45,000. This was a great location to see and the hospitality was much more than expected.

Lawson and Lima Park Ranches

Day 4:

Lawson's Angus cattle

We began the day at Lawson's Angus ranch this morning. It was yet another cold day full of drizzle but Mr. Lawson was kind enough to show us his herd and give us a valuable briefing of how his farm operates. Some background for this ranch was that he and his brother took over the ranch from their father right out of college roughly twenty years ago. They were lucky enough to see agriculture across the globe and made decisions with that information regarding how they wanted their ranch ran. Using many of the same concepts and genetics as the Gardiner Angus ranch that is local back home. I saw a huge change in the treatment of cattle here than in the states. The Lawson ranch is a very intensive ranch that utilizes the local rye grass and clover to grow out their cattle with a huge reliance on survival of the fittest. They put a greater stress on their cattle as calves by forcing them to compete with each other to get a true idea about how each of their genetics will play out instead of catering to the cattle that aren't performing up to par. They do have some advantages over most farms in the U.S. through a 90% A.I. conception rate with use of a higher quality GnRH and an animal-friendly endophyte grass that retains the insect resistance without the increase of grass tetany.

Lima Park's Hereford cattle

Next we visited the Lima Park Hereford ranch where I saw a very different perspective. Mr. McMillan has a mixed farm running around 3000 sheep and 500 head of cattle. He primarily sells his cattle and sheep to the European Union with wool going to China. His practice is strange compared to those common in the U.S. due to the fact that his average cow weight is around a ton and he does not retain heifers out of heifers. I did find it fascinating that he had a product called "Clik" that was used to eliminate fly strike in his ewes for the summer months. Tomorrow we visit both a sheep and emu operation so stay tuned for some fun facts about those species.

JBS and Webb Ranch

Day 3:

After our visit to the JBS Abattoir

Our first stop this morning was at the JBS Abattoir in the Brooklyn area of Melbourne. this was an amazing operation with great efficiency. Just to throw some numbers out there to gain a better understanding; they process around 5000 sheep and just under a thousand head of cattle daily. It takes roughly 30 minutes to process a beef carcass before chilling for 24 hours and an additional 30 minutes to process and package to the point where it is ready to ship to the retailer (Coles being the major supermarket is the most focused on). They employ roughly 1200 employees to operate this facility; each being a 14% increase in cost of production. Although they do not have the same products as sold in the United States, they are opening new segments such as per-seasoned and pre-cooked beef and lamb to their customers here in Australia. The major difference I saw between the two countries were their primary focuses. While in the United States we focus on quality and yield grade and the natural and hormone free beef is purely a niche market and lamb only consuming a small portion of the market, Australian beef and lamb is HGP (hormone growth promotant) free due to the demand from their customers and has a great emphasis on natural grass fed beef and lamb. The last difference I observed was the high demand from Coles for bone and offal used in many popular dishes here in Australia.

The Webb ranch on a rainy day

 Later we ventured to the Webb Black Simmental ranch. Unfortunately it was raining so we did not get to view all of the roughly 1600 acres but we did get to see the sale ring and catch pens and I must say they were VERY nice. We had a good discussion with the Webb brothers regarding the introduction of the Simmental breed to Australia and the operation itself. All in all I was impressed with the organization and boldness to be one of the first large Simmental breeders in Australia and wish them the best of luck.

Victorian D.P.I. And the Carlton United Brewery

Day 2:



Victorian Department of Primary Industries

A few group members stuck inside the brewery

We started the day off with a visit to the Victorian Department of Primary Industries and got several extensive lectures regarding the animal identification system used here to track where to and from the meat is transferred throughout Australia. There are a few ways to do so but they all follow the same concept. Each and every animal is given an identification number that includes the origin of the animal and their individual number. In one system they use electronic ear tags and a wand or stationary reader to record the animal at each location. They have furthermore created a system to link all of the systems used so each location that the animal is tracked at is given all information available on the animal. After leaving the department our bus driver Richie took us on a lovely tour of the city. We were fortunate enough to see marvelous architecture and the rugby and soccer stadiums where some of the national tournaments are played. We continued on and stopped at the Shrine of Remembrance where they honor those fallen in the Korean War. We also stopped and toured such monuments as the Botanical Gardens, The home of Captain Cook, and the St. Patrick's Cathedral. After taking countless pictures we left to visit the Carlton United Brewery where such beers as the Carlton Draught, Foster's, and Crown Lager are made. I learned from our tour guide that they distribute around 2 million liters of beer annually and that they can make several thousand cans and bottles of beer a minute. A fact I found fascinating was that with the massive amounts of alcohol pushed out daily, it takes Australians only 3 to 5 days to consume 100% of the beer that requires 3 to 4 weeks to brew. Lastly I would like to give a special thank you to Geneveve who rescued us when we were locked in the brewery and provided us with complimentary beverages before concluding our visit.

Healesville Wildlife Sanctuary

Day 1:

A koala bear in the Healesville Wildlife Sanctuary

A statue of "Banjo" the eagle

After a 16 hour flight in a broken chair over the Pacific, I finally arrived in Australia. Landing in the growing city of Melbourne, we went directly from the airport to grab a snack at the local McDondald's. Although the restaurant was the same as in the states, we did have our first moment as true tourists when we spotted a parrot perched in a tree in the parking lot. From there we left to visit the Healesville Wildlife Sanctuary. I didn't manage to capture a kangaroo or koala bear (sorry all those who were relying on me) but I did get a good look into the local wildlife and history of the area. Sitting just inside the entrance was a remarkable statue of an eagle. The story behind the statue was created by the Aboriginals to tell of the creation of Australia. Following the fall of a great star toward Earth, the eagle "Banjo" was born. Banjo first created land, then realizing the need created water. He then formed a rainbow that shattered and led to the existence of parrots (explaining their various and vibrant colors). I was lucky enough to catch the "Birds of Prey" show put on by a couple of the zoo employees. They displayed the fascinating abilities of the birds to mimic, hunt, and even follow several instructions without a second command. The zoo had a display of the top 10 deadliest snakes in Australia (behind a secure piece of plexiglas). They also had three Dingos that I learned an descendants of the Asian wolf. But the most important tidbit I brought away from my trip was that we can all work to save these endangered species by following the instructions of Captain Crapman and "Wipe for Wildlife: Buy Recycled Toilet Paper", but keep in mind that the first step is the hardest: change.

Australia in a Nutshell

Australia is a country that provides many unique and diverse gems that can only be seen here. So for several reasons, I am extremely excited for my visit to the continent across the Pacific. I am fortunate to be taken on an exploration through Kansas State University’s study abroad program and will be visiting the cities of Melbourne, Victorian, Wagga Wagga, and Sydney to name a few. I am most excited to visit Sydney and the Great Barrier Reef, but will be exposed to the variation in agriculture by visiting several other locations scattered throughout Australia. In order to prepare myself for the trip, my classmates and I have done research to prepare ourselves for the quest.

 The geography of Australia is distinctive by being the only country that is also an entire continent. Furthermore, it is the flattest and driest continent, preceded only by Antarctica. A few things I found interesting about the Australian government is that it is illegal to walk on the right-hand side of the pavement and also illegal to give name to an animal intended for slaughter. The currency of Australia also had a peculiar beginning. The holey dollar and the dump were developed to ensure the coins did not return to Spain by separating the coin into an inner and outer part. The culture of Australia was mirrored off its English settlers, making rugby a favorite in Australia, and Christianity the primary religion, which replaced the “Dreamtime” spiritual concept developed by the Aboriginals.

A well-known feature of Australia, the Great Barrier Reef, is also known as the Blue Outback and spans a length greater that the Wall of China. On land is the Rainforest of Northern Queensland. With only two definite seasons, the “green” and the “dry” seasons, it is one-of-a-kind. Additionally, it contains the largest mountain in Australia, Mt. Bartle which stands over a mile tall.



Mount Bartle of the Rainforest of Northern Queensland



Almost all of the farms in Australia are family-owned, each feeding approximately 600 people. 61% of its vast land mass is occupied by farm ground that produces crops similar to the United States with a greater focus recently placed on their nut production. Australia is currently the second largest beef exporter worldwide, with beef contributing 18% to farm values and sheep accounting for 25%. Following many mergers with existing feedlots, Cargill and JBS are well-established in Australia. The primary difference between the Australian locations and others worldwide is the 93 page document of environmental restrictions to abide by.

http://www.saleyards.info/index.cfm

Although sale yards and livestock sales are similar to those in the U.S., the Wagga Wagga Livestock Market utilizes a system where the auctioneers and buyers are located in an arena above the cattle instead of at eye level. Several breeds such as Angus, Herefords, Shorthorns, and Simmentals have made their name in Australia, along with the popular sheep breeds, the Merino and the Suffolk. The Emu, a bird that is scarcely popular worldwide, is also a significant part of Australian agriculture.

The Blue Mountains and Beyond

               

 Due to the numerous gold settlements outlining Sydney, the Blue Mountains were first explored in 1812. Utilizing its riches to raise sheep and cattle, rural living was became comfortable in the late 19^th century to the early 20^th century with the advancements in communication. It is now home to the densest rural population in the country. It has easily become the favorite vacation spot for travelers. Important to the Blue Mountains is the Blue Mountains National Park. Estimated to be approximately 250 million years old, the name derived from the blue haze produced from the Eucalyptus tree oil. Visitors may experience these natural wonders by visiting the Cathedral of Ferns, the Jenolan Caves, Wentworth Falls, the Three Sisters rock formation, Mount Wilson, and the Mount Tomah Botanic Garden; alongside structures such as the Leura Mansion, the Norman Lindsay Gallery and Museum, and towns of Katoomba and Blackheath.

The Three Sisters of the Blue Mountains National Park

 The cities of the Blue Mountains are also riddled with history. Windsor and Richmond are home to the colonial Hawkesbury Museum and the Mountainview farmstead. If one moves northeast toward the central coastal city of Gosford, the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, the Australian Rainforest Sanctuary, the Brisbane Waters National Park (containing the Bulgandry Aboriginal site), and the popular Australian Reptile Park are sought after attributions. Up the coast is the town of Newcastle, Australia’s second oldest city. Built in haste due to the coal and steel mining boom, an assortment of architecture styles can be seen including Late Free Classical, High Victorian, and Victorian Gothic, in addition to visiting the Newcastle Region Art Gallery, the Nobby Lighthouse in Queens Wharf, and Fort Stratchley.

The Nobbys Lighthouse and signal station

With wine being a huge part of Australia’s economy, it is sensible that there are numerous wineries travelers should explore. To name a few would be the Hunter Valley Winery, located off the Hunter Valley River and home to the Hunter Valley Wine Society, the Rothbury Estate, which also provides a well-known breakfast and hot-air balloon ride, Lake’s Folly, and the Peterson’s Winery. Most would also recommend traveling to the Northern New South Wales Coastlines which is home to many memorizing beaches and unique harbors.

Going west of the divide, the cities of Dubbo, Bourke, and Broken Hill contain contributions to the scattered history of Australia. Most popular is the city of Wagga Wagga. Translated as “a place of many crows” and known across the country as the “Garden City of the South”, Wagga Wagga is covered in wineries and gardens designed for a relaxing and revitalizing vacation. Also found in the city is the Wagga Wagga Historical Museum and Widadjuri trail.